Monday, January 26, 2009

Snowshoe-assisted hiking

I needed to get out of town today. With colder temps everywhere and only the Sky running, I decided I wanted to get in a hike, and hopefully break in my new MSR snowshoes. The Olympic Peninsula had sunny skies forecasted, and I woke up early to catch the 7:10 Kingston ferry. I was at the "trailhead" for one of the OP snowshoe hikes in my book by 9:15. The hike itself was just up a gated road in the National Park, but it was very beautiful. Due to little snow accumulation over the last couple weeks there was a thick layer of ice, with maybe a quarter inch of powder from last night's snowfall on top. I ended up hiking most of the road, only putting on my snowshoes near the top. I hiked hard, mostly because it was REALLY grey and cold, but also because my book had mentioned a second gate as a landmark at 2.8 miles in. Since I never found that second gate I was pretty confused and thought I'd been hiking a long time for less than 2.8miles! I finally wound up at the Deer Park campground at 7.4 miles in at around 1pm. It was so cold I only hung out long enough to eat a snack and drink some ginger tea before heading back down. On the way down the sun burst through and blue sky opened up vistas of the Strait of Juan de Fuca all the way to the Cascades. Glorious. One highlight was all of the animal tracks in the fresh now - I hiked all the way back to the car following a new set of fox tracks that hadn't been there on my way up.


Hurricane Ridge across Wolf Creek valley in the afternoon light

Nice hoarfrost

Cliched but irresistable new gear shot. Not sure how cold it was up here, but I had icicles coming off my beard where my breath had condensed and frozen.

Pretty cool hike, definitely would come back if the snow was fresh and deep. Almost 15 miles was a bit brutal, but getting to Deer Park was worth it.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Whitewater road trip part II

After crashing at my parents house in Amity, Chipper and I headed north to try to find something to run.  We were having serious technical cell phone problems, and ended up not really getting in touch with anyone.  We ended up heading to the East Fork Lewis river, in hopes of just randomly meeting up with folks.  Chipper had been in touch with Mike Olsen, who lived on the river, and who apparently was spending the day clearing a log jam in the tightest part of the gorge.  After being generally unsucessful for about two hours, we finally ran into Heather Herbeck and friends  on their way to the putin.  We tagged along and ended up having a fantastic run. 

The EF was running at about 1000cfs but it felt like low water compared to the upper wind the day before.  We ran half a mile of II+ until we got to Sunset falls, one of my favorite waterfalls.  Although there are three sweet lines on this drop, only the left looked good.  I ran second after Heather, cutting diagonally left through the guard hole and getting a good left boof to straighten out.  There were some interesting lines, including a swim in which the boat completely vanished under the falls for a good minute.  

We ran on down through sky pilot, but at the Olsen's house there was a big sign warning that the logs hadn't been cut out yet, and to come on up to the house.  Mrs Olsen was kind enough to drive us in a truck shuttle around the gorge to their friend's house on the other side of the gorge. We put back in a ran down to Horseshoe Falls, which most of us ran blind through door #2.  Easy falls, but so much fun!  The rest of the run was relaxing and fun.  Ended up being a really fun group.

After the mandatory PDXkayaker PBRs at the takeout, chip and I drove back to Seattle, getting in around 8 after a great weekend of boating.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Whitewater road trip part I

Chipper and I had been talking about a road trip for a while and events lined up this weekend. A lot of talk had been bouncing around the NW messageboards about the Upper Wind being at a great rafting level this weekend, and we decided to head down and meet up with some Portland paddlers to run it. Randomly, I got in touch with an old paddling buddy - Crazy Ray, from Portland, who I took a creeking progression with in my first year of boating while at Lewis & Clark.

We met up in Carson at the takeout, although more honestly we met at the start of the takeout road, since none of our vehicles could make it down the road, with at least 2 feet of snow on the ground. Ray suggested we start by running Lower Trout Creek into the Upper Wind, and we all thought that was a great idea (the one other time I'd done this run, we ran Lower Trout into the UW). I would characterize Lower Trout as a class III+ to IV micro creek, that gets progressively steeper the closer to the Wind you get. We spaced out well on the creek (although we got in the way of some pro Hood River paddlers as they sped through) and had a pretty uneventful and fun run down to the wind. Trout felt east coast manky, which was fun for me and not so fun for some of the others.

The Wind felt huge when we got to the confluence. We later found out that it was probably medium to medium high according to Jason Rackley's Oregonkayaking.net site. We headed straight into Initiation, which was a long rapid with a sweet boof at the top and tons of hole dodging and wave bashing throughout. I'd remembered the run mellowing out for a while, but instead we got continuous pushy big water rapids all the way to Ram's Horn. I remember screaming into the eddy above Ram's Horn with a big "WHOOP!" and everyone in the eddy whooping back at me. Good times!!!!! Ram's Horn was big - a slidey entrance to a big curler that wanted to drop you into a big hole. I ran it fine, getting left of the hole. Chipper said that after he dropped straight into the meat of the hole he got hammered so hard he hit his shoulder on the bottom of the river. Yikes!

The closest I came to getting worked was at Balls to the Wall Right, a long rapid ending into two backed up ledge holes against the right wall. I thought I'd be fine by powering right to left through the holes but at the first hole I got stopped by a boil about a foot and a half high and ended up stuck hard in a side surf between the hole, the boil, and a big upstream rock. It was ugly for a while, and everyone thought I would end up swimming out, but I finally managed to claw my way out along the rock and made it down to the eddy. WHEW! The next guy went right of where I did and got hammered against the wall and pushed up against an undercut and swam. BTTWR was definitely the site of the most carnage on the run.

We ran a right side line at Climax, which had a huge hole at that level.
The rest of the run was a blast - big water and fantastic scenery (including a massive cascade falling into the river from the cliffs above).

Getting to the takeout, I was bonking from being hungry, but we still had the hike out through the snow....Which was all fine once we made it to the awesome WalkingMan Brewery in Stevenson, for pizza and brews.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Upper and Middle Pilchuck Creek III-IV+

Chipper called me this morning - "Pilchuck is running, we're going to run it". Well...I hadn't be in my boat for three weeks, when I was back in DC and ran the Potomac. Before then, it had been about 6 weeks since I ran the Foss. So, I wasn't exactly on my game. But, whatever, I had to live up to my new years resolution of getting out more! And Pilchuck was notorious for being hard to catch, needing a ton of rain to bring up. The region's rivers were just recovering from the devastating high water the week before and we were hoping the wood situation (7+ mandatory portages reported from the last folks to run it) had cleared up some.

We geared up at the takeout and headed upstream, hitting 2-3 feet of snow pretty quickly. The parking situation at the putin was interesting - 2-5 feet of plowed snow from the road prevented us from finding an easy way to the river, and we ended up sliding down the snow sketchily to the river bank.

Once on the water, I realized this run was absolutely perfect run for tuning up my rusty skills. Totally continuous class III with interspersed class IV sections, waves, ledges, holes, boulder gardens. It was all there, and I was feeling good in minutes. There was a ton of wood that was kind of in play everywhere but nothing that needed to be portaged. The upper went by quickly, with only two really memorable bits. One rapid was split by a island with the main flow going straight into a big logjam piled on the upstream side of the island. I eddied out on the wrong side of the river, and had to pull off a sketchy upstream ferry with my back to the wood. The other notable rapid was a long class III-III+ rapid that ended in a big diagonal ledge that sent me out in a huge stern ender. Good times!

The scenery turned incredible once we headed into the Middle Pilchuck section. Deep mossy basalt gorge that the Bennett book says is reminiscent of the Olympic peninsula. The best drop on the run came up quickly - a 15' waterfall with several lines. The scout eddy was small and there was a lot of us so I ended up just hanging out in my boat, receiving some verbal beta, and dropping it blind.

Photo by Jeff Dwyer

Good times!!! It was a little off vert and I penciled a bit but recovered fine. Everyone had great lines. The rest of the run was bigwater III+ to IV with no portages. Beautiful waterfalls cascaded here and there into the canyon, and I saw a huge bald eagle in a tree high above the river. We got to the takeout and all of us couldn't stop talking about how awesome this run is. Utterly fantastic day on the water. This run would be a classic if it ran more, and didn't collect as much wood, but we were extremely lucky to have a portage-free descent.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Starting off the new year right

A priority for me this year is to get out of Seattle and explore more - basically be more of a bad ass. The first quarter of school was a little rough, as I had trouble balancing fun and work, and I missed out on a lot of opportunities to kayak and hike.

So, with the first weekend of the year upon me, and waking up to a typical rainy, cold, and grey Seattle day, I decided to get out of town! Following the advice of a recent trip report on the awesome Washington hiking site www.wta.org, I headed north on the 5 to Mt Vernon and the Chuckanut Mountains. These mountains are immediately adjacent to the Sound and are apparently utterly spectacular when the weather is nice. I parked at the trailhead for the Oyster Dome, and set off in all my rain gear up the steep hike in the pouring rain. Being by myself turned out to be rather exciting, as I immediately started thinking about mountain lions in the thick forest. I hit snow on the trail after a couple miles and a couple thousand feet of gain, and soon the pouring rain turned into thick falling snow. It was easy to make out the trail though, and the snowy forest scenery was spectacular. Since I didn't bring my snowshoes, my pace slowed and I eventually decided to turn around about 2 o clock, since I didn't want to risk losing daylight by myself. This hike was fantastic, and I didn't even get a chance to see what is supposed to make it so great - the view from the top of Oyster Dome looking out across the Puget Sound! I'll be back.